Spatsizi Wilderness
Scrapbook
July 16-23, 2004
Scrapbook pictures from our 2004
trip to the Spatsizi
Wilderness, north of Smithers, BC; a Travel Adventures
escorted trip.
Spatsizi Wilderness for Unlimited Rainbows
The
rainbows are all over the place! While not huge, they still aggressively take
the fly. Of the 300 plus fish each in our group caught (yes, 300 plus each),
60% were on dries. Most of the fish are 12-15 inches, but 20% of the catch
easily exceeded 15". Grayling and bull trout are also present, with the bull
trout being close to trophy size.
Spatsizi
Plateau Wilderness Park is located in northwestern
British Columbia, Canada. It is one of Canada's largest and most significant
parks, 3,600 square miles in area, not accessible by road, only by fly in,
usually out of Smithers, British Columbia.
It is true; trout only swim in beautiful places! The scenery here is
breathtaking: lakes and streams, white goats, bears, moose, bald eagles,
glaciers and snow covered mountain tops. All are seen daily from fly outs or
from the lodge. Every evening while waiting for dinner, guests and guides enjoy
viewing the surrounding mountains sides in search of the wildlife on the distant
mountain terraces and slides.
The
fishing season in Spatsizi begins the end of June (shortly after ice
out) and goes through the first week in September. Situated at the virtual
headwaters of the Stikine River is Laslui Lake - the
central lodge and base camp, consisting of a chalet and log cabins. Breakfasts
are served at 8am, a half an hour after coffee has been served in your room.
First class dinners are prepared by an excellent chef precisely at 8pm.
Daily fly outs are in Cessna 185 float
planes so as to experience a new river or lake every day and are usually 10 to
40 minutes from the lodge. The first fly out is usually by 9am. All planes
return to the by 7pm.
There are numerous streams, rivers and lakes
where inlets and outlets abound with unlimited fishing. The daily catches are
phenomenal - when the hatch is on, the streams produce extraordinary numbers.
There is no competition from other lodges as Spatsizi Wilderness is the only
lodge in the park. An occasional canoe group is seen and only the odd fishing
group that has flown in from a distant base.
Lunches
are riverside on freshly caught trout, cooked to perfection by the guides using
an extremely tasty Spatsizi recipe. Other than the two or three trout cooked
for lunch, all other fishing is strictly catch and release, single barbless
hook.
While we were fishing Laslui Outlet within
an hour of arrival, our first fly out was to Rognass Creek. Fishing the outlet
of the lake that is the beginning of the creek started out rather slow. In fact
I probably had only 10 fish in the first hour and was really unsure as to what
the fly-de-jour
was going to be. There was no consistency to the takes or to the location of
the fish. Wadding was super easy on
this beautiful piece of water, never more than waist deep, clear to the bottom
and average width of about 60 feet. I decided to head further downstream to
explore and came to an interesting set of riffles. Still a little puzzled as to
choice of fly I eventually opted for a Hornberg, probably a size 12. I could
start this fly out as a dry, and then retrieve it as a
wet. Well, this was the fly. I have to say that I could not keep the rainbows
off my hook. I caught 28 rainbows on one Hornberg. The fly was a
wreck. I was down to two wraps of silver tinsel and maybe three strands of the
teel feather left on the hook before giving in to a change. The Rognass gave up
100 rainbows to me before lunch. Confession: I actually told Billy LaBonte,
our excellent guide, that I was getting tired of taking
the fish off the hook. After lunch I continued downstream with amazing
success. Another 50 trout, all witnessed by a beautiful bald eagle that kept a
careful watch on his stream from high overhead in flight or a top a high fir
tree.
A short trip (very short) from the Lodge up
river is Tauton Lake. Canoes are strapped on to the floats and sent up early.
The flight is no more than 10 minutes. Power boats have previously been placed
on the lake and are used to access the inlet and other fishing spots. On this
trip, the outlet fished the best. Swinging big black Wooly Buggers attracted
good size rainbows. In the faster current we were fishing, the trout would run
and jump spectacularly; three or four times before bring to the net. In the
deeper runs that would dump into the deeper pools, bull trout would often chase
a small hooked rainbow. Change to a
bigger zonker pattern and the bull trout would chase and nail it when stripped.
These were big bulls; good fight and a strong pull. The float and canoe trip
downstream and back to the lodge offers a chance to stop and wade the deeper
drop offs and pools, all successfully. Dry fly action in the afternoon was
exciting when casting to rising fish that might be more than 40 feet away all
lined up along an obvious seam in the water and directly in the feeding lanes.
The river is strong enough to float in the canoes all the way back to camp,
except for the gentle paddle that is required at the end, near the lake, but
this is only about 15 minutes worth.

Mink
Creek, was another fly out destination. Interesting water; just find the drop
offs and you were into fish. Mink Creek has a few graylings along with larger
rainbows. The Stikine River also has a pool about 400
yards downstream from a falls that is loaded with graylings. Unfortunately the
day we visited, it was raining, so hard in fact, that we could barely see the
far bank and that was only 40 feet away! We tried for about two hours in
pouring rain, and then gave up.
T he
Firesteel was our last fly-out for the week and is actually located in Tatlatui
Park and is the headwater for the Finlay River. Rainbows only at the Firesteel.
Around 5pm the plane picked us up for the flight to the Firesteel camp which is
located on a secluded stretch of the river. The Firesteel outpost is rustic yet
comfortable. No electric, but running water and hot showers!
Dry
fly action was remarkable. You wait for a target (a rise) and cast to it right
away. Bang! Fish on! As on all of the other waters, fly patterns are very
basic. Dry flies like Royal Wulffs, Stimulators, Parachute Adams, and Elk Hair
Caddis all work great. Wet flies that work well are Hare's Ears, Woolly
Buggers, Pheasant Tails, and Hornbergs. Nothing small; use 14s or larger.
While
overnighting at the Firesteel camp, you get to fish the evening rises. Ray
Collingwood is the host at this original base camp and Ray loves to fish and
show off his section of the river. It was here that we woke up the following
morning to a heavy fog over the river that yielded a large bull moose feeding on
the river bottom at the opposite shore. Just a beautiful offering from Mother
Nature. The moose outlasted our patience, for we took numerous pictures and
even approached to within 25 feet in the boat for a final set of photos, yet Mr.
Moose was unimpressed!

Guides
and pilots are all experienced, knowledgeable and very helpful at Spatsizi. I
think even a novice angler can experience a trip of lifetime memories!
Horseback riding, canoeing, and hiking are also available from the Lodge.
If you want to read more about this great
area, find a copy of the March 2004 National Geographic.
~~ C |